Opening a Letter

Opening a Letter

As usual, one recent morning while at my NGO CSRC in Dhapasi, I went to a small fruit shop to purchase breakfast.  I picked up a mango and an apple and when I tried to pay, the owner started saying something which I couldn’t understand.  I asked an adjacent shop owner for help, but he didn’t speak any English.  I tracked down a man who could help me and he explained that the fruit shop owner was indicating that last week I had overpaid and that today’s breakfast was free.  I walked away with a huge smile and a special start to my day with a new feeling of love for Nepal. 

The previous day I had gone to Boudhanath with an American friend, who had contracted polio as an infant.  Dan was visiting Nepal, with another American athlete, Greg, a contingent from Wheelchair Athletes Worldwide (WAW), making a donation of sports wheelchairs and conducting two clinics and a tournament for 60 Nepali wheelchair athletes, children, men and women of all ages.  At Boudhanath, Dan used his titanium crutches to get around as we met many people including a monk using wooden crutches.  Dan gave a small donation to the monk who told him that this would bring good karma. 

On previous visits to Boudhanath I had noticed piles of prayer flags waiting to be burned and was wondering who I might request these from.  On this day, I asked, a security guard if this was possible and he subsequently spoke to a manager.   I explained that Dan was from California and wanted to bring some prayer flags to the States.  The manager obliged by having the security guard provide some hanging prayer flags.  He also gave me a strand which will be brought to my son’s ashram in California.  The manager then unlocked the main temple for us.  Both Dan and I were taken in by these acts of kindness but it somehow felt greater, knowing that the prayer flags which had been hanging at Boudhanath would make their way to California, a small but somehow important connection.  

As I wrote in my May column, I was involved during the month with facilitating a wheelchair sports event involving civil society, corporates and the private sector.  The three days were a success on many accounts as primarily witnessed by the smiling faces of the wheelchair athletes, their friends and family, spectators and the volunteers. 

One of my good friends, Bishnu of Nature Trail Travels & Tours, Trekking & Expeditions provided me with an analogy relating the clinics/tournament to an envelope, and how so many people read the outside but only the receiver sees the inside.  Given that the three day event was developed through a range of partnerships, I found this analogy to be quite compelling.

It is often very true in life that we only see what appears on the surface, and that random acts of kindness, everyday events, go unnoticed.  In terms of the wheelchair sports event I can safely say that many persons and businesses behind the scenes did most of the work.  Bishnu selflessly provided transportation for Greg and Dan, inviting them for dinner and generally made them feel, as if, part of the Nepali family.  DRAGONAIR provided a huge donation of transporting the wheelchairs at no cost from Los Angeles to Kathmandu without any word of wanting/needing publicity.  The International Collage of Hospitality Management (ICHM), although I had asked them to initially provide 50 meals, ended up providing upwards of 100 meals and had 10 students volunteering at the event working from early morning to late into the afternoon.  All of this was done as an in-kind donation.

Most of the donations were conducted with little publicity, except for having a logo on a banner or an ad.  Naysayers might say that nobody does anything for “nothing” and to some extent this is true.  Many times a business doing a good deed is looking for free publicity, which in terms of CSR makes sense. Never-the-less what I generally found was an overall desire to help. I would also venture to say that it is the little guys, those in the background, who really made this particular event a success.   

The little guys didn’t have much to gain as their logos really couldn’t’ be seen and were at the bottom of everything.  Also, the general lack of an audience didn’t help/serve their business.

Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) is about partnership, but these connections have to come from the heart to have true impact.  I would never fault a corporate for entering into a CSR partnership for wanting to advance their business objectives, after all this is what CSR, in my mind, needs to be truly about.  The place where CSR however often fails is that it is only about the business objective and not about the real reason as to why CSR is being conducted, e.g. advancing the needs of Persons with Disabilities and creating more inclusion, keeping children, especially girls in school, developing livelihoods opportunities to get people out of poverty.  But this is an education process and will take much more time.

I want to end with one more story about the inside of “a letter”.  When I came into the office today I was speaking with my friend who although she had wanted to come to the wheelchair sports event texted me and said that she was dealing with a person who had had a heart attack.  When I asked Janita what had happened she told me that her carpenter had called her because she was the only person that he knew who might have some money to help.  Janita was able to get the money together from a number of people to thankfully save the man’s life and if she hadn’t been able to do this, the man would have been turned away by the hospital. 

I will always try to open the envelope to determine what is inside and to truly find out what is happening; appreciating the privilege that I have in living in Nepal. 

Breaking Barriers-Haruwa Charuwa

Through my volunteer work at CSRC I was recently able to interview a number of Haruwa/Charuwa (mostly Dalits), who were in Kathmandu to advocate for their rights with policy makers.  The group included four men and five women, primarily with the last name of Ram or Sada from VDC’s in Saptari and Siraha Districts.  The majority of the group were illiterate due to lack of educational opportunities, circumstances related to discrimination, land-poor and lack of funds.

The International Labour Organisation (ILO) Convention Nos.29, 105 and 182 prohibits forced and bonded labour including child-bonded labour.  The Government of Nepal has ratified ILO Convention Nos. 29 and 182 and has passed its own legislation. However,a substantial numberof rural individuals and families are still compelled to works as semi-bonded labourers. Lack of capabilities and access to alternative sources of livelihood, children deprived of a school education due to having to take over their family’s generational debt, debt bondage at exorbitant interest rates, allowing no possibility for payback and lack of citizenship papers are just some of the issues which perpetuate poverty and the practice of a bonded agricultural labour system.  Most of the Haruwas have no land and  have settled on a landlord’s land,  which is another reason as to why they have remained as bonded.

The Government of Nepal formally abolished the Kamaiya Labour System on 17 July 2000 and had enacted the Kamaiya Labour (Prohibition) Act 2001 to prevent and rehabilitate bonded labourers under the Kamaiya system in agriculture. This Act includes agricultural labour systems, e.g. Haliya, Haruwa, Hali, Charuwa, etc. under “Kamaiya Labour”.  Haliya/Haruwa and Charuwa are very poor people who are Dalits. They are the most marginalised people with the majority being landless, traditionally considered as “untouchables”.  Often entire families are bound to work as unpaid labourers to a landlord as the father is engaged as a Haliya/Haruwa. 

Today there are approximately 69,000 Haruwa/Charuwa families^[1] in the eastern region of Nepal. 

The number of Haruwa/Charuwas has been gradually reduced but there are still families working to pay off debt.  Most of the Haruwa/Charuwas (approximately 90%) are forced to pay 60% interest to local landlords or money lenders for their survival needs. Wage payments are mainly in-kind (rice) and the cash value is only 50-60 percent of the minimum wage declared by the government. Endemic poverty, wage exploitation, and access to land, health and quality education continue to be major problems.

Siran Sada, 55, Badagama VDC, Saptari told me that his grandfather became a Haruwa, by taking a loan and that his family is still working on paying off this debt, although he didn’t know how much remained.  In light of the fact that the landlord was charging exorbitant interest rates there is probably little personal  hope of ever getting out of poverty.  Siran has a home on public land on a river bank.  He has had opportunity for daily wage jobs, which hardly pays more than 5-6 kg of rice/day, but that the landlord is pressuring to work their land.  Siran was given four kathaland, which is insufficient to grow food for the full year.  He has also taken a loan from his landlord.    Siran has had few options for educating his children and the life of a Haruwa has now been passed down to a fourth generation, through his son. Siran’s family is one of the fortunate few among the group in that his son brought home a mobile phone from India. 

Latar Sada, Sishawani, 63 VDC, Siraha discussed how educating the young might be able to eliminate the Haruwa system, but he also said that he has insufficient resources to send his children to school and that he doesn’t have enough food for his family.  He indicated that children have to leave school early due to discrimination, e.g. non-dalits were provided with new books, while Dalits were given old books, or the fact that Dalits had to sit in the back of the classroom.  But it is also a question of having the money for exam fees and stationary items and although schools are advertised as free, in fact, there are costs.

Sonawati Sada, 34, Hanuman Nagr, Siraha  had borrowed NPR 4,000 from her landlord, but has had to borrow more than NPR 40,000 from six money lenders who charge 60% interest rates for medical treatment for her and other family members.  If the family doesn’t pay anything they will get evicted but   some of the male family members have gone to India for temporary work in order to pay something towards the loan.  Sonawati has three daughters, with the oldest, 12, taking care of the family home meaning that she is no longer in school and will have little livelihood opportunity. 

Rajaya Debi Sada, 44, Madhupati VDC, Saptari,lives on village government land in a family of nine members.  Rajaya was married at 17, neither she or her husband attended school, her father was a Haruwa and she married a Haruwa.  Rajaya has four grandchildren, her son was 18 when he was married and his wife was 16. 

In total all felt that being a Haruwa/Charuwa was not fate, that it was  man-made.   When I asked the group how to resolve the issue some talked about the government exempting the loan and providing social security for medical purposes.  Gulab Debi Ram, 45, Haripur Saptari told me that the government should providing land for housing about one katha plus additional land based on family size in order to grow 12 months of food. 

How does the question of  elimination of Haruwa/Charuwa truly get addressed, in order to provide opportunities and get people out of poverty and into the mainstream?  How do we ensure that children are not born into a life without much hope, only because they were born to someone with the surname of Sada?  Why can’t land be distributed, based on generations of tilling and also paying a fair wage for a fair day’s work?  Why is it that some must remain impoverished and not share in what we all hope and dream for? 

Although Haruwa/Charuwa has been organised by CSRC and the National Land Rights Forum (NLRF) which has included demonstrations, rallies, sit-ins, submission of demand letters, and meetings, a number of times with high government officials, there has been no proper response.

At some point in the distant future the vision of CSRC, A Nepali society where everyone enjoys a secure, free and dignified life, might become reality, but until that time we need, even in small ways to give hope to people like Rajaya, Siran, Latar, Sonawati and Gulab and their families.  It is up to all of us, government, civil society and corporates to work collaboratively in making a bright future for all Nepalis. 

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[1] ILO Unpublished Study 2009-Haruwa/Charuwa

Nepal

I recently ventured, for the first time, to Pokhara and observed massive amounts of lush greenness as I peered out of the window of the bus.  This trip and the return to Kathmandu made me realize how much I really love Nepal.  In a little less than one year, I’ve made a life for myself and call Kathmandu my “home”. 

The friends that I’ve made, the people that I’ve met and the opportunities that have presented themselves have helped to embed Nepal into my heart.  For the past four years I’ve been able to live/volunteer in India and Nepal and I feel so very “rich” and blessed.

There is no doubt in my mind that it is easier living in the United States, the infrastructure is well maintained, things are very orderly and familiar, there is less pollution, garbage is almost non-existent.  (As I waited to take a plane back to Kathmandu from Pokhara , I started talking to a Nepali who described Kathmandu as a mini-hell).   The US, however, lacks culture, adventure, challenge, color, the unexpected and everything else that goes along with living and being part of a so-called “developing country”. 

During the past four years I have become an avid photographer and could spend hours sitting at Boudhanath as I did on Buddha Poornima, or hanging out at Potter’s Square in Bhaktapur, or walking from Thamel to Sanepa, observing, snapping photos of people’s faces, which are my favorite subject.  This never gets old.

When I’m  not working, I spend a good amount of my “spare” time coaching and promoting sports for Persons with Disabilities.  I talk a lot about the UN Convention, accessibility and inclusion. This is a hold-over from my three years of volunteering for the Indian Government in the disability field.   I co-coach, along with my friend Raj Kumar, the Nepal Army Wheelchair Basketball Team.  On the last day of coaching before I left for vacation, we took a group photo and two hours later I was presented with a beautiful, hand-made frame with the photo inserted in it.  This was all done in a small ceremony with Raj Kumar and me receiving rose colored tikas and  red khatas.  The guys call Raj Kumar, Guru, such a sweet sounding word of respect.  This entire scene, including the taping of a segment about the athletes for the on-line magazine, Ventzine was very unexpected and “touched” me deeply.

I constantly talk to Nepalis who tell me that they want to go to America, as if somehow, this is a country in which they can fulfill their dreams.  Nepalis can tell me all about the two party system, the Democrats and the Republicans.  I can only smile in their knowing.  But yet somehow I am flowing in the opposite direction. 

I cannot name all of the Nepali political parties and I feel like an “infant” in understanding what makes the country tick.  But where else, in such a small geographical space, can I meet people from so many different countries and cultures and become part of a global community?  Where else can I enjoy the colors of holi, find so much intrigue and so much to marvel at while being so accepted? 

Of course there are other countries, but I’ve found a home in Nepal, a place where working on issues of Corporate Social Responsibility and land rights, integrated development and women’s empowerment opportunities can really make a difference.  While I was cooking a last dinner at my NGO, Community Self-Reliance Centre (CSRC), a young woman came into the kitchen and started to tell me that she had been a Kamlari and I immediately felt a sense of wanting to write about her, to help her tell her story.  I ask myself, where else can these kinds of stories present themselves.

The world is very large and there is so much richness in diversity, all of which I’ve  found in Nepal.   I hope to continue enjoying this for as long as possible, adding to it in my own little way.

Mike's Speech-Creating a More Inclusive Society: Promoting Opportunities for Persons with Disabilities

Thank you all so very much for coming today.  This has been a long time coming, as we continue building the  infrastructure for sports for persons with disabilities throughout Nepal.  Although the 11 sports wheelchairs are being donated to NWRA, they are for all of Nepal.  My brother Bharat is very much with me on this as he wants to help be a part of growing sports in this beautiful country. 

I was so very happy to see the Danish wheelchair athletes in Nepal a few weeks ago, promoting basketball and table tennis.  The NSCISA is to be commended.  The recent tournaments in Darrang and Pokhara and the organisers are also to be commended.  There are also other things happening such as building accessible sidewalks from Jorpati to Boudha which will be a dream come true and a wonderful start to making KTM an accessible city.  I’ve recently met some Nepali architects and engineers who want to help in these efforts. 

Although we will focus on basketball over the next three days, this is really about sports for Persons with Disabilities, whether it is cricket for those who are site impaired, table tennis, rugby.  It is an individual’s choice in terms of what makes them happy.  Persons with Disabilities have the same rights to participate as anybody else and the Nepal Government has acknowledged this being a signatory to the UNCRPD. 

Now is the time to put aside any differences and come together to promote an inclusive society and opportunities for Persons with Disabilities.  This isn’t about money, as this event has been accomplished without any funds going to anyone.  This was accomplished because people want to help one another.  This isn’t about Nepal being a poor country, although I don’t really believe this, especially when I look at all of you.  Nepal is rich with resources, just look at those around you.  To me it is about working in a non-violent, collaborative, respectful manner to build a very strong movement.  This takes an entire society people from all sectors, civil society, government, corporates and others, those who strongly believe in unity.

My feeling is that this event shows unity. 

My friends Dan, Greg, Pete, Chuck, Shelley, Maralyn are here from WAW.  Without their initiative these clinics and the donation of sports wheelchairs, for the first time in Nepal, wouldn’t be occurring. Our partnership, through volunteering, started with a similar program in India in November 2011 where we all met Aamir Khan.   I want to thank all of the NGOs that we’ve spoken with and those who agreed to partner:  Nepal Wheelchair Rugby Association (NWRA)-Bharat and Sitaram and Choo,  Nepal Spinal Cord Injury  Sports Association, Aakash, a young man who cares deeply and his bosses who are leading in accessibility issues, Nepal Physiotherapy Association, Bikash Nepal, VSO Nepal, ENGAGE, working to create more volunteering throughout society-My friends Simo and the real boss of this newly formed Nepali NGO, Kalpana, the young adults volunteering from Thames who will be helping us to build capacity through coaching throughout KTM, CSRC (accommodation), Nepal Army (transportation), Nepal Basketball on Facebook, the government through Nepal Paralympic Committee and the National Sports Council, providing an in-kind donation of the Covered Hall as well as,

variety of corporates including DRAGONAIR/Cathay Pacific providing free transports of 11 donated sports wheelchairs from Los Angles to Kathmandu and sending Bharat to Korea to learn about wheelchair rugby, Chaudhary Group (CG Foundation) and my friends there including Nirvana Chaduhary, providing Wei-Wei and soft drinks, gold medals for all athletes and a banner,  the Himalayan providing four advertisements, Himalaya Television my friends Jini and Chang, providing media coverage, Bottlers Nepal, providing soft drinks, International College of Hospitality Management (ICHM) providing meals, Media Gallery, my friend Anmol, providing advertisement design, FORCE Nepal, media coverage, Pioneers, my friend Ramesh providing young volunteers through school captains, and Nature Trail Travels and Tours, my friend Bishnu providing transportation for wheelchair athletes.  I of course also want to thank the best Nepali wheelchair basketball coach Raj Kumar, who is very devoted to working with Persons with Disabilities. 

There are also many others who are with us and that includes everyone here.

Over the next three days, let’s have fun and enjoy each other’s company.  But let’s remember that this is only a beginning, we need to continue to dream, one day a national sports centre for Persons with Disabilities, competing on a regular basis at an international level, creating a more inclusive Nepali society. 

It’s up to all of us!  Go Team Nepal!

Losing Ego and Appreciating Others

“That’s me in the corner, that’s me in the spotlight, losing my religion (ego), trying to keep up with you, and I don’t know if I can do it”

From R.E.M. Losing my Religion

By nature, it seems that ego drives us, makes us who we are, enabling  us  to achieve.  But I also find that ego gets in the way, forces us to view others through our own rose colored glasses, expecting things to be a certain way, when we inherently  know that they can’t or should not .

One might think that having lived in India, and now in Nepal, would lead me to look at things differently.  On many days, this is the case, as I do have more patience and understanding for different ways of living and being.  But in many moments I revert back to my, “don’t let me fool you by my laid back California upbringing”,   type A personality. 

It isn’t easy being a human being, as we tend to want things done “our way”, as if somehow we know the way.  The reality however is very different, as witnessed by the very confused state of the world.  This didn’t happen by chance.  One can see  investment in one’s ego  in many people, especially world leaders as how they try to exert their power over citizens, or make it known that their country is now the “big guy on the block”.  The rhetoric, the “my guns are bigger than yours”, the movement of weapons threatening others, is all something that is quite frightening and screams out, “we will show you”. 

Growing up with my parents and two sisters in a Jewish household  in America , there always seemed to be a need for acknowledgement, to be well educated and achieve in the classroom or at home, the need to have stuff, the need to have a professional job,  or trying to keep up with others, more in a material sense than anything else.  I do feel privileged to have grown up in the US and I would never trade this upbringing, but when I think about how much of the world’s resources Americans use,  I wonder what this is truly about.  When I witness how others also admire or want to live this lifestyle I feel that it is a path which only leads to the earth’s further destruction.  But I don’t want to be selfish and deny others, because I’ve had this experience.  On the other hand, I also feel that many might hate me or totally dismiss this lifestyle because they know “the way”. 

My life has gone in the opposite direction, living on a volunteer’s allowance, in which I’m comfortable, but where I would be in dire poverty in the US.  While I might marvel at gigantic homes and the amount of stuff within these homes, I wonder why this type of status is necessary, especially given the fact that I can peer out my window from my flat in Sanepa Chowk and see people living in one room “shacks” with no amenities. 

Given this environment, the need as a human being to want more resources for ourselves and our families, selflessness,  doesn’t seem to be part of our core fabric.  Yes, maybe in some, the saints of the world, people such as Gandhi, Mandela, Martin Luther King, Jr., those living in monasteries/nunneries,  those who dress and eat the same food and don’t have stuff. 

I think a lot about my son, who is living as a postulant in a monastery in California as a devotee of Paramahansa Yogananda.  Whenever I speak with him, which is maybe once every six weeks or I’m able to see him, once or twice a year, he always seems beyond happy.  As if somehow, he has transcended ego and is leaning towards selflessness.   He doesn’t spend time on the internet and  at this point in his training,  is somewhat restricted in his outside dealings primarily spending his time in service. 

Although my life is devoted to interacting with the outside world, to networking, planting seeds and trying to make things happen, I also feel that service is  key.    However I question whether I  can be selfless, not needing recognition, doing “good” things without letting others know while not thinking further about this,  and  living without expectations from others.  Given the constant bombardment of wanting/needing to achieve, seeing what others are doing and the inequities in life, which really drives me, this isn’t easy.  By keeping the image of my son in my mind and his chosen path, somehow I feel that I have a chance.  I think that it all comes down to thinking less and less about this and letting the thoughts of recognition pass without dwelling on them 

I wonder how different the world might be if we all could be a bit more selfless and really appreciative of others and their lives.   But maybe this is totally opposite to the human condition.  Possibly, if we all try to be a  bit kinder, more empathetic and less ego driven, the world would presumably be a better place, not only for ourselves, our families and friends but for anyone born and fortunate enough to spend time here. 

The Fertility of Imagination-Civil Society

Civil society in the form of NGOs/INGOs seems to be regularly attacked as not providing much help to those in poverty, de-politicizing rights holders, by providing them  with a few “crumbs” to keep them pacified . In speaking with some friends, they also seemed to feel, that on some level, many civil society organizations are not effective.  In Nepal, I’ve come upon the term “bottom-up, rights based and non-governmental (BORING) approach to development,  and Gaisasagiri or NGOism as negative in the sense of equating this with the “intense de-politicization of the disadvantaged population”.   In the civil society organisations that I’ve worked with these somewhat negative connotations  couldn’t be further from the truth. 

Civil society plays a vital role in providing empowerment opportunities, raising awareness regarding vital public issues and capacity building, in order to impart skills which rights holders can use to advocate for themselves.  Without civil society doing this type of work, there would be a much greater economic divide.  Through civil society advocacy, people living at the lower rungs of the economic ladder have a voice and are not totally forgotten. 

Civil society helps to bring people into politics in order to advocate for themselves.  A prime example of this is the land rights movement throughout Nepal, where local activists work to develop, in harmony with community members, empowerment opportunities.  All of this occurs at the ground level, in a rights based fashion and in collaboration with government at all levels.  I’ve found that people who have lived a primarily agrarian lifestyle and have been voiceless throughout their lives, become powerful voices of change for themselves and their families, once they are made aware of their rights.  This also enables the rights holders to have greater passion and assertiveness vis-a-vis politics, locally, as well as nationally.  This can lead directly to national policies which take into account those impacted.  In the disability sector there is a saying, which I first learned in India, stating that, “nothing about us without us”.  This also seems to also be the case in the land rights movement, facilitated through civil society organisations.

Through working for three years at the National Trust, Ministry of Social Justice and Empowerment, Government of  India, I came into contact with more than 900 NGOs, throughout the country working in the field of developmental disabilities.  These civil society organisations made it possible for Persons with Disabilities to have a direct link to the Indian Government. More importantly the NGOs enabled those with disabilities to collaborate, making the movement much stronger.  The strongest voices in this movement were those of Person with Disabilities and/or those having direct family links . 

Another example, although from the West where I was the Executive Director of an HIV/AIDS NGO,  is that through civil society we were able to help those living with this disease to bring their issues directly to legislators at the State Capitol and local political bodies.   These actions were about facilitating and providing empowerment opportunities for lower income, disenfranchised People Living with HIV/AIDS, to advocate for themselves. 

Civil society in Nepal is also helping to bring the conversation regarding Violence Against Women (VAW) and other gender issues into a national conversation.  Women’s organisations are the ones that have again helped to give voice to those who might have thought that they were in a hopeless situation.  Through continued advocacy and government engagement, in the longer term, women will make further societal gains, not only in Nepal, but throughout the world. 

Civil society also helps to ensure that good governance is in place at all levels, including in NGOs/INGOs.   This is a not an easy task, but through individual capacity building and learning to advocate for one’s rights is very possible.

There will always be those civil society organisations that are not “worth their weight”.  But this has more to do with individuals than anything else.  Painting a sweeping generalization of anything in life makes little sense.  Although the words behind the BORING acronym, do make sense, I would rephrase this because the work is  EXCITING and INCLUSIVE.  This is about working with the voiceless, the disenfranchised, those who have been forgotten and focusing on a rights based approach facilitating right holders to receive their fair share of the economic pie, leading to the same type of life which we all long for.  In fact, this is what the civil society organisations that I’ve worked in and am aware of, are doing. 

Michael Rosenkrantz, Kathmandu,  possesses an MBA and an MA-Sociology and has worked in the NGO and government sectors.  Michael has been Executive Director of NGOs in the US, and has worked at the top levels of local government  and volunteered for the Indian Government in the field of disability.  Michael presently works, as a VSO volunteer, on Corporate Social Responsibility issues and in land rights through Community Self Reliance Centre (CSRC).

I-MAN goes back to Dang

Bhojman, a work colleague, had invited I-MAN to his village, Sonpur, but then he wasn’t invited, but then he was, but then a bunch of people died because of the cold and then I-MAN’s dear friend Arat stepped in and said I-MAN has to come to my home in Ghorai to witness the festival of Maghe Sankranti.  I-MAN was prepared to stay in Kathmandu, but then he was walking, at 5 AM from Sanepa Chowk to Teku to find a taxi.  Finally, after a 20 minute walk, a taxi was located and whisked I-MAN through the some-what deserted back-roads to the New Bus Stand, which I-MAN had confused with the Old Bus Stand.  Some NPR 500 later, I-MAN was waiting at the New Bus Stand, in the early morning cold for Bhojman who soon arrived.  By 6:10 AM the pair were on the bus and there was no speaker above his head! 

The most frightening thing for I-MAN about going back to Dang was that he would sit next to another speaker which would surely want to put another scar over his right eye in order to make things symmetrical.  But this bus company was smart as they had a flat speaker not facing any seats.  I-MAN was quite happy about this as the children across from him started putting candies in his mouth. 

The bus driver, of course, didn’t have much of a driving record and had been in jail several times for incidents related to crashing buses and having them fall over cliffs.  Never-the-less I-MAN was quite happy when at one stop a very dear relative called from a distant land, that sometimes crept into I-MAN’s dreams.  This put a big smile on I-MAN’s face for the rest of the trip.  I-MAN was also quite happy that he would be spending two evenings at Arat’s home and could show off his scar to Arat’s family.  Also he was looking forward to renewing acquaintances with the Dragon, Spider and A-MAN, and of course Arat’s mom and her brothers and their wives, but most of all Arat, as I-MAN had a special fondness for her.

A-MAN, a Nepali Superhero

Once the bus arrived at the village of Sonpur  and Bhojman jumped off, I-MAN had about another hour to go and felt a little uneasy, but knew that his little friends who continued to feed him candies would help.  Sure enough the candy kids got off at the same Ghorai stop.  I-MAN stepped off of the bus, and there was A-MAN who jumped into I-MANs arms as they flew up into the sky renewing their acquaintance.  Prakesh and Arat were also there and I-MAN gave both of them big hugs.

They all walked back to the Ghorai home where I-MAN gave Arat’s mom a big hug and checked out the friendly mouse in the bathroom.  It was just as I-MAN had remembered and they all went to sleep preparing for the big festival. 

On Monday morning, I-MAN, Arat and her mom set out and took a bus to the festival site.  Now I-MAN had been to this site before when he had previously visited an orange Sadhu man.  I-MAN remembered the peacefulness and tranquility but he also remembered the then quiet animal sacrifice site.  I-MAN could hardly believe his eyes as there were people and oranges, peanuts, a movie house and balloons everywhere, as far as the eye could see.  I-MAN immediately found some sadhus and asked them to take some photos with him.  There were also boats giving rides in the lake.  I-MAN had remembered that these boats had huge holes in them and was wondering how somewhat miraculously they had been repaired.  People were also bathing and washing off their sins, floating candles, the usual kind of thing that people did when bathing, in well, not quite clean waters.

I-MAN's Cousin with some Sadhus

I-MAN walked and walked and couldn’t seem to  get past the mounds of oranges and peanuts.  The movie house, which appeared to be a huge cardboard box, was playing a kung-fu movie.  I-MAN poked his head inside, but nobody was watching the movie, although the audio was very loud.  I-MAN found some sugar cane and a young lady came right up to I-MAN and said hello, I’m so and so and where are you from?  I-MAN was somewhat baffled, but was quite happy that this young woman had come right up to him and I-MAN told her so.

Prakesh and A-MAN had also arrived and they said ok it is time to witness the sacrifices.  I-MAN, being a vegetarian, was somewhat wary but he also wanted to take photos and maybe make a movie.  Yes I-MAN was full of contradictions, even for a young superhero.  The trio saw some people roasting headless bodies and cleaning entrails and lots of fur in big piles.  I-MAN wondered what kinds of animals these might have been and whether or not they screamed or knew that their heads were about to be taken from their bodies.

As the trio crossed a thin bridge where people were pulling the long white entrails into spaghetti, I-MAN soon found his answer.  There between a double line of people were at least 35 headless, what used to be sheep.  A little further away I-MAN saw the bloody chopping block.

I-MAN watched as a sheep was led up to the block with one man holding the rump and another man holding a rope tied to its front end, while a third man took a 10 foot sword and sliced off the head.  This was all done in such mechanical fashion as many people looked on.  The blood was running but there were no screams from the sheep, as they knew that they were going to a place where there would be no chopping and the people in the present world would be grass which the sheep would eat.  I-MAN neither saw any sheep shivering and wondered why people chopped off heads out in the open.

But I-MAN knew that maybe this might not be as cruel as the meat industry in his home country, SU.  He knew that sheep, pigs, goats, cows and other animals used to feed the carnivorous hordes were sometimes kept in small pens with poop everywhere, something knows as factory farms.  On some level I-MAN didn’t like this killing, as after all he survived on fruits and vegetables, occasionally some tofu and paneer.  But on another level, at least the sheep had maybe had a good life living in a village and had not been penned up having to sleep in their own feces, while polluting the air that the people breathed. 

The trio decided to leave the sacrifice area and walk to a temple. There were so many people waiting to pray, some holding chickens, some holding other kinds of things, like flowers, to give to the gods.  As the trio continue to walk on the road to leave, more and more people were coming in, so they decided to go to a restaurant and try some veg noodles.

The restaurant was located in a perfect place, right next to the entrance of the festival area.  I-MAN had been to this restaurant on his last village to Ghorai, but that was before the restaurant had officially opened.  The veg noodles were pretty good tasting and I-MAN and A-MAN and Prakash were now ready to leave. 

But this was more difficult than first thought given all of the people coming in.  In fact there were so many motorcycles, buses and people that nobody was moving, it was as if this was a gigantic game of freeze tag, with everyone frozen.  The trio decided to board a bus, but that bus driver thought that he would go up a hill and I-MAN knowing fully well the driving habits of bus drivers in Nepal, said let’s get off and walk. 

Since there were so many people and buses and motorcycles the trio decided to walk on top of this holy mess.  That proved to work as the trio slowly made their back to the Ghorai home.  I-MAN,  as usual took lots and lots of photos of the colorful Nepali people.  There was even one boy wading in a stream.  He seemed to be quite overjoyed to see I-MAN and jumped up and down in the water.

Back at the Ghorai house, I-MAN knew that it was time for a hair-cut and his second ever straight razor shave and face massage.  It was just as I-MAN had remembered from the last time that he was in Ghorai, so very relaxing.  After this it was time for a shower to get off all of the travel dust.  In fact, I-MAN had acquired at least five kilos of dust all over his body and he felt as if he needed to shed this extra weight, even if the water was cold.  Fortunately the bath area had a large drain, because if it hadn’t, I-MAN would have suffocated from all of the dust that came off of his body.

I-MAN felt pretty good after this and went outside to play with some children, including A-MAN, who had made a ball out of rubber bands.  I-MAN had noticed many children throughout Nepal making these rubber band balls and was happy to finally get to play with one.  The balls didn’t bounce that well, but they were inexpensive and most families could afford these.  The thought crossed I-MAN’s mind to buy a bunch of round balls and give them to children, but then he thought better of this idea, which might cause some kind of revolution and then he might get kicked out of Nepal, which he really didn’t want to occur.

I-MAN wondered how this revolution might be reported in the Nepal history books, i.e. first a Maoist Revolution, followed by a ball revolution.  I-MAN, having most recently come from America, although as we  know, originally from India, just didn’t want to have this on his conscience, especially because he thought that the then American President Obama, would really never play basketball with him.  I-MAN just took a load of rubber bands and threw them up into the sky, where many young Nepalis were waiting to catch.

That evening I-MAN said good-bye to Arat who would be leaving early the next morning for Kathmandu in order to take some test the following day.  When I-MAN awoke Prakesh put him on a bus for Sonpur Village.  Upon arriving I-MAN had to wait for at least one hour at a bus stop, until his friend Bhojman arrived.

Bhojman came on a motorcycle with some friends and Bhojman indicated that the and I-MAN needed to take a bus to get to Sonpur. 

Once arriving in Sonpur, a real village, I-MAN was introduced to Bhojman’s wife, daughter and his parents.  Bhojman was building a new house, but that didn’t matter much to I-MAN as he was happy to be back in a village.

He also noticed something that he hadn’t seen before.  That was the fact that none of the toilets, or outhouses, had a roof.  This was the first time that I-MAN had ever sat in a roofless toilet and given that fact that I-MAN was quite obsessed with toilets, he added this one to his long list.  Once I-MAN left the roofless toilet he just couldn’t wait to have to relive himself again.

Bhojman decided he would take his daughter and I-MAN on a little tour of the village, which proved to be quite a fun undertaking.  Most of the villagers had never seen anyone like I-MAN before and they were quite curious, walking up to him and pulling his ears, trying to pull out a hair or two from his head, pulling eyelashes.  I-MAN took this all in stride and only said, “Namaste” and explained what he was doing in his limited Nepali.  Of course there was also some dancing and laughing and sitting in a kitchen with about 50 other people. 

I-MAN was beside himself with pure joy.  Many photos were taken and there was even some music.  I-MAN could only marvel at the, seemingly simplicity of it all.  There, of course, were the frustrations with people eating candy and just throwing the wrappers anywhere.  But I-MAN would always ask the people to pick these up and find a dustbin.  (On the ride back to Kathmandu, I-MAN observed some young adults eating chips and then mysteriously the bags would disappear.  I-MAN spoke to them and wrote an article about this that was published in a newspaper,http://www.thehimalayantimes.com/perspectives/fullnews.php?headline=At+your+disposal&newsid=MTg1Mg== ).

After a night of sleeping in Bhojman’s home the duo left for Kathmandu as it was time to return.  Fortunately there were no speakers and I-MAN even thought that the scar over his left eye was starting to disappear.  I-MAN was happy to have spent some time out in the rural areas where most Nepalis struggle to make a living.  As usual though, I-MAN found lots of smiling people who were all too happy to welcome him into their homes.  I-MAN certainly couldn’t wait until his next adventure in learning how to become a world citizen and having more respect and understanding of those that would never have the same life as he was so blessed with.

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